Thursday, 12 June 2008

scouting daytona

In approximately three weeks we'll head south to Florida for our annual beachy vacation at Daytona Beach Shores. Naturally, my thoughts immediately turn to "What will we eat?" and "where?" Daytona is rife with chain restaurants, and so in the interest of avoiding them and compiling a list of chain alternatives I scoured the Florida Chowhound boards for advice from the locals and recent visitors who value good food as much as I.

Here's my working list of possibilities so far:

Cocoa Beach

Daytona

Ormond Beach

Ormond-by-the-Sea

Port Orange

New Symrna Beach

St. Augustine

  • Gypsy Cab Company

Tuesday, 15 January 2008

saved by cinnabon, sort of

For once, my appetite for pastry saved the day.

The Atlanta airport has several concourses. Thursday afternoon my flight landed at concourse D and I noted a Cinnabon. I passed it by, naturally thinking that there was one in every concourse. Au bon pain distracted me long enough to make my flight and I traveled on to Philadelphia where I spent several days eating at restaurants of my choice and not of my choice. The novelty of Au bon pain is that there is not one servicing my pastry needs. Surely if it was an everyday thing, I'd not be so enamored of it.

When I stopped at Atlanta again and my flight landed at concourse B I went in search of Cinnabon. The main directory listed Cinnabon at concourse A. My traveling companion and I parted ways. We had about an hour to board our connecting flight to Tri-Cities, and she didn't want to be late to the gate following up my whim.

On to concourse A, where there was no Cinnabon. The directory at A listed D as the home of Cinnabon and our flight was leaving from concourse C, so no problem, they're adjacent. In the interest of saving time, I asked two airport workers which direction Cinnabon was, and they pointed me to the right. I walked and walked. Thought I saw a line, but that was at Burger King.

The Cinnabon counter was strangely free of cinnamon rolls. They were shut down? All out of cinnamon rolls?

[At this point in my story Ian told me that there aren't as many red-eye flights as there once were and as such, many airport eateries have limited their operating hours accordingly.]

I considered writing a nasty letter to the airport and to Cinnabon as well. Didn't even have time to compose it in my mind. Just went on my way, in dismay, in abject disappointment. It was pure luck that as I passed by a gate at concourse D I looked up and saw a flight to Tri-Cities departing at the same time as mine. I checked my flight number against the one at the gate.

They matched. Yup, they not only changed gate numbers, but complete concourses, too. About that time, I got a text message from my traveling partner telling me to go directly to the gate I stood in front of. I approached the gatekeeper and asked her if the flight was boarding. She said yes. I walked down the ramp and onto the plane. My traveling partner arrived about ten minutes later and boarded the plane after rushing to the gate.

The moral of this story is that the tummy knows! My desire for cinnamon rolls endowed me with a form of ESP, thus allowing me to be in the exact right place at the exact right time. How's that for tummy luck?

Wednesday, 05 December 2007

third time yum yum

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Saturday evening my mother and I drove to Jonesborough for the 30th Annual Progressive Dinner. It's our third time. Ian spoke of childhood Progressive dinners he attended with his family when they returned home each holiday season to Canton, Ohio, where his parents originated. He said they'd go around to his relatives' homes, gobble something good, and then move on. But I'd never participated in one until three years ago. It was a slightly foreign concept for me.

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In Jonesborough this means that you board a trolley, hear fascinating tidbits about the town's history from Deborah Montanti, Director of the Jonesborough Heritage Alliance. There's an emphasis on architecture and town history and we stopped at several of the town's finest historic homes to eat a portion of the meal and socialize with other diners. And, each home hosts live music.

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The h'ourdourves were fabulous and were my favorite part. Clockwise beginning at the Wassil we had Dates with Manchego cheese and walnuts, Bleu cheese filled radicchio and endive, and bacon-wrapped scallops. The toast was at Hawley House, perhaps the oldest home in the Territory South of the River Ohio by virtues of its establishment about 1793.

Mushroom and brie bisque and cheddar melting morsels were at Hedberg Home. Both were okay, but didn't knock my socks off. The home was the first built in town after the Civil War. My favorite space was the octagonal section, but I have no idea what it's proper name is.

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The entree was at the Parson's Table a former church turned restaurant that closed in the early 1990s. The roasted pork loin was supposed to have Jezebel sauce on it, but I couldn't tell whether it did. And i was excited at my first taste of jezebel. But I'll likely have to throw together my own jezebel for a taste of that. There was a vegetarian option listed on the menu, but we were not offered it. Frankly, it sounded better than pork loin: Butternut squash, portobello mushroom & tomato spinach lasagna. The pesto green beans were good, but too plentiful. The creamy spinach and Parmesan cheese orzo was my favorite. Country rolls and your choice of white or red wine rounded out the meal. This year though, our server wasn't prompt with refilling wine glasses. I only had two glasses this year, whereas last year I might have had four.

The couple at our table were in their seventies and eighties. The gentleman was dapper and an excellent conversationalist. He was a retired chemist from Eastman who served under Patton during World War II. I could have talked to him all night. I absolutely love men and women in their eighties. There's something about that age that draws me in. I love hearing the stories they tell about their lives and experiences.

He regalled us with stories of his grandson who lives in Madison, Wisc. and all his techie gadgets. Sadly, I cannot recall his name. His companion was Alice. She's an artist who paints mainly with oils and watercolors. I wasn't certain if they were friends or something more.

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Why must dessert always be something I don't care for? Last year was tiramisu, which I find over-rated, though it was quite good. This year was chocolate cake with raspberry stuff drooled alongside. It wasn't terribly rich and was quite palatable, so I ate most of it. I've mostly been a good eater all my life. I eat what is offered.

Chocolate, while a lovely thing, and friend to millions, is just DONE for dessert, as far as I'm concerned. I am terribly atypical because I don't love coffee, either. And that's all that was offered to drink at Floyd Home, a gorgeous 1907 Colonial Revival whose interior and exterior were Mom and my's favorite hands down. Floyd Home used to belong to Jonesborough's premier historian, Paul Fink. The iron fencing surrounding the house was delicate and lovely.

My photos were not so good. That was unfortunate. The lighting was subdued and I am not a lover of flash photography. All in all a delightful time was had by Mom and me. As we ate dessert a woman commented about us being mother and daughter. She said my mom didn't look old enough to have a daughter my age. I replied that I looked a lot younger than I am. She guessed my age at 28. When I revealed my age she was shocked and said I didn't look that old. I pointed to mom and said, "I've got good genes."

Thursday, 25 October 2007

little bit of cuba

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Cuban cuisine was on my list of things to eat while visiting southern Florida last month. But we didn't eat at Havana. It was on my list.

One day we grew hungry driving back from our climb up Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse. I told Ian we'd passed two or three Cuban restaurants on our drive up Federal Highway to Jupiter, so we'd pass them again coming "home." The first was closed; only opened for lunch. But the second was open. We were early, right at 5 p.m. for dinner. As we walked through the door Ian mentioned the Zagat rating sticker he saw from the outside.

Perhaps our whim was a good choice. Of course it was. The service was wonderful at El Colonial. As usual, we were ready for dinner by five o'clock. They served us Cuban bread with butter right away. Yum. Ian ordered the steak and eggs. The bite I had was good.

Sadly, I cannot recall what I ordered. I got plantains, rice, and beans with it, and all those items were hot and tasty. Ian and I recall I had fish. It may have been the Grouper Creole. And we ate so much that we didn't dare order dessert.

The decor is a little dated, sort of seventies diner, but very clean and crisp with only black, white and red colors accenting the interior space. The menu had lots of choices and making a decision was difficult for me. The atmosphere was homey and family run.

Wednesday, 24 October 2007

a charlie by any other name

Quite by accident, we ended up at the wrong restaurant on our vacation last month. Captain Charlie's Reef Grille was on my list of places to eat but somehow we ate at Charley's Crab instead. We'd been given recommendations by our timeshare person and those recommendations included directions. I saw Charlie's and assumed it was the place I had in mind despite the directions taking us south into Palm Beach instead of north to Juno Beach. But sometimes we headed in odd directions because you couldn't get from one place to another directly, if that makes sense.


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Charlie's Crab did not disappoint. I loved the view. We sat next to the window and watched the Atlantic. And the cars drive by. Ian commented that he expected a lot more luxury vehicles passing by than what he saw. I concurred. We arrived early, right at 5 o'clock. The only other table seated held three people ranging in age from 80-90-something. Not good news at all.

My oysters on the half-shell were not the best I've had. Ian looked on in disgust as I funneled them into my mouth. He had a steak and potato. I ordered the roast duck special topped with cherries. Yum. I love duck. Yes, we were at the beach. I should have gotten seafood. Even though I can get seafood at home, finding duck on anyone's menu is rare. There were two legs. One was drier than the other. Can't recall, but I think the duck was served with mashed potatoes, or something. Several other tables were seated and by the time the party behind us ordered, the duck special was no more.

I must confess my love of skin. Surely it grosses people out, but that's the best part. And this duck skin was glazed and crunchy and pure heaven. When I was very choosy about what I ate, oh, some thirty-odd years ago, I always ate the skin off the chicken my mamaw served on Sunday. And maybe a nibble or two of the meat.

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The key lime pie was excellent. Quite tart. Our waiter scored the pie's top and squeezed fresh lime over top. That's a trick new to me.  And actually, the service was delightful. Our server came around and scraped crumbs off the tablelinens. He topped off my glass with iced tea served from a bottle.

Another night we made it to Charlie's Reef Grille. The directions I got from google maps were dead wrong. We drove twenty or thirty miles past the restaurant. Finally, I called and the hostess told us to look for a certain building. They were in a strip mall just off the main road. Driving this great distance is no problem for us. Inevitably, when something goes wrong, as we expect, we take it in stride. Ian is fabulous about being patient. He doggedly drives as I call out street signs and navigation points.

We arrived and were seated shortly. A young man left bowls of coleslaw to the table. It was right good. Not enough mayo to suit me though. We ordered drinks and pored over the menu. There were regular seafood dinners and dozens of tapas selections. I picked three or four of those: Blackbean cake with spicy rock shrimp & cool fruit salsa; Little Neck Clams w chorizo, corn, capers, & tomatoes in a garlic broth; and the Tempura tuna medallions, rare, with wasabi cream and fruit. Ian chose jerked chicken. But then a waiter carried a whole fish by our table en route to another point in the restaurant. I asked our waitress what that was. She told me: Yellowtail Snapper.

The light was dim, so no photos. My fish was divine. I consumed entirely too much of it. It was served with black beans, rice, plantains, and fruit salsa. Whole fish with its head left on appeals to me on a primal level. And it it's grilled or fried, then all the better.

Perhaps it hearkens back to a pleasant childhood meal I had at the Widow Brown's.  There was no children's menu. I ordered the trout. They brought it out head on, eye staring up at me. The Widow Brown's ambiance surely had something else to do with that early memory. It was in the basement of the Parson's Table, a French cuisine restaurant in Jonesborough. The Widow Brown's floor was brick or stone. A fireplace took up almost an entire wall. The ceiling was low and huge beams crossed from wall to wall. Maybe there were apples served along with my trout. I cannot recall. But that is the moment that I liked whole fish better than fish sticks, though I'll still eat those, too, if they're any account.

The cobbler at Charlie's Reef Grills was scrumptious. Ian claims it as his favorite dessert while we vacationed. It was Pineapple, banana, mango, and coconut cobbler. The crust was more a crumble and saturated with butter in the best way. Best cobbler award hands down goes to Charlie's!

Tuesday, 23 October 2007

sharpen your knives

Flinn

Over the weekend I read The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry: Love, Laughter, and Tears at the World's Most Famous Cooking School (2007). I bought a copy Friday after the reading Kathleen Flinn gave at Malaprop's. There were several trips to bookstores that I almost bought a copy, but then I knew about the Malaprop's event and didn't want to buy from a bigboxbookstore when I can support my local, though out-of-state, bookstore with that purchase. One of the things I hate most of all is going to a book signing without having read the book. Also, I think it's wrong to bring a book you bought elsewhere to an author's book signing at a bookstore, though I've done that once before with Poisonwood Bible (1998) and it wasn't at a bookstore, but at a convention center, of sorts.

Flinn brought cheese and crackers to share with her audience. There were twenty or thirty of us, at least. For her first book signing in Seattle she made beef bourguignon for eighty. Her second stop on her book tour was in Portland, at Powell's. We heard all about that. One of the first things she asked her Asheville audience was how many were vegetarian or vegan. A few raised their hands. I felt the movement behind me, but didn't turn to see their numbers. In the interest of not offending those in her audience who don't eat meat or care to hear of its evisceration, Flinn refrained from reading sections from her book describing boning of meats. It's a shame she felt censored in that way.

Then, too, she was told that Malaprop's customers like to ask lots of questions, and so she didn't read so much because of that. However, she read from the prologue and another section as well. Flinn has a knack for accents. She imitated her British boss's phone call foretelling the loss of her job. And I think there were two Frenchpeople she imitated as well.

Flinn's is a story that combines two of my loves: France/Paris and food. How could I resist? Flinn details her early relationship with food and cooking, as well as her dream to attend Le Cordon Bleu. When she is terminated from her London job, her boyfriend tells her to put her belongings in storage, cash in her 401K, and pursue her dream in Paris. And he'll come along, too. Sounds like the best of everything: Your lifelong dream and love to boot.

This is sort of Top Chef meets Sabrina. There was a small bit of competition between Flinn and the other students for top spot in their class. Mostly, Flinn describes the delightful, sustaining relationships she made with students in her courses and the somewhat contentious, yet ultimately satisfying exchanges she has with her chefs. Occasionally she mentions one or two persons by name who hog ingredients, or take extra grapes or meat for themselves in case they screw up. Basically, those selfish actions screwed the other students out of having enough to make their one dish.

And, Flinn includes a recipe at the end of each chapter. Her writing is clear. Her descriptions are meaty, sensual. She was easy to root for when situations grew tense in the kitchen or she thought she bumbled her exams. Sometimes her oven didn't work. And once, she dropped a duck. Then, there was the language barrier; her years of French didn't prepare her for her immersion within the language at Le Cordon Bleu. Students have translators in the first two courses, but are on their own during Superior cuisine.

But then, back to her reading: She was delightful and charismatic and charmed all who heard her. Her eyes teared up once or twice as she described her relationship with Mike, her boyfriend from the book, whom she married. She answered at least eight or ten questions from the audience and from those we learned things that weren't in the book.

Like, her knife skills are the most important thing she gained at Le Cordon Bleu. And that the school is disappointed, or distressed maybe, because there are fewer and fewer Americans enrolling at the flagship school because the Euro is so much stronger than the dollar. A course at LCB ain't cheap. It's about $10K a course. And one takes three courses to earn a diploma: Basic Cuisine, Intermediate Cuisine, and Superior Cuisine ($30K doesn't include the cost of living in Paris). All her cuisine classes seemed interesting, yet every time Flinn mentioned patisserie, my eyes perked up wanting more.

Almost every memoir published about someone living in Paris, or France, for that matter, I find and read. French culture and society fascinate me. I want to wrap myself in it, like a bit of chocolate in bread. Yet, I don't love French cuisine. I don't seek it out, that is. When traveling to urban centers I go for Thai or Latin or Japanese cuisine. Surely it's the rich cream sauces that keep me away. Years ago the Parson's Table in Jonesborough served divine French cuisine. My family went there for special occasions, like my college graduation, or to celebrate my mother and my birthdays. But, it closed. Now there is no French food here.

Hmmm, I don't like souffle. And puff pastry doesn't do it for me. Oh, but croissant. Yum. And all that bread? Other interesting things from Flinn's book was when she learned that the government regulates when bakers take vacation. People need their bread. They cannot be inconvenienced by bakeries closed while bakers take vacations at the same time.

Something I had never read before, in all my reading of Paris and France, was the Frenchpeople's social obligation to one another. Certainly we have this idea of Parisians, especially, being horrible, snobbish folks, but they take care of each other. For instance, one time her taxi dropped Flinn outside her apartment in the rain with bags and bags of groceries and a stranger helped her carry her sacks up six or seven flights of stairs.

And Flinn mentions seeing a man in a wheelchair sitting at the top of the stairs to the Metro. There was no handicapped access ramp to the tunnel leading to the trains. Two young men came along and picked the man and his wheelchair up and carried him down the stairs, and into the tunnel so he could roll on to the Metro. It's part of French obligation to help one another in these ways. It was refreshing to read, not so much because I think ill of the French, but because so many other people feel that way. Those poor Frenchfolk are simply misunderstood.

One last thing that I liked about Flinn's book was her descriptions of Belleville, a Parisian working class neighborhood in which she lived for a short time. Belleville is one of the most international neighborhoods in Paris and is filled with immigrants. Seeing this "alternative" to all the fancy-schmancy arrondissements was a treat.

Okay, I cannot stop. There was something else I enjoyed about the book: Flinn's charity. Often she gave her practice dishes to homeless people because she and Mike craved more variety in their diet. For the most part, the homeless were grateful. Although one man fingered the fish she gave him and told her how she over-salted it, maybe?

Cross-posted from my reading/book blog, readingroom.

Saturday, 13 October 2007

pizza avoidance

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If you find yourself ever at Riviera Beach, Fla. avoid Portofino's. The empty tables should have alerted us. The day was warm, and the ceiling fans didn't make a dent in the heat. But I appreciated the reggae and thought it terrible that it was quickly turned off once a pair of elderly ladies sat across the dining room from us. Then the music was ucky drek. Like Celine Dion or some such. Our pizzas were soggy. Our French waiter was not so attentive. Ian never got a refill. So while the pizza looked good, it wasn't our favorite. Soggy, soggy crust. It was hot, though. That's something.

Friday, 12 October 2007

gelato shot

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Thursday, 11 October 2007

capitol food

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U.S. Capitol viewed from U.S. Botanic Gardens, Capitol Grounds

Eating in DC is always a treat. To celebrate Columbus Day, I didn't eat anything Italian or Spanish. Really, the first food experience I had there was shopping at Safeway for goat cheese, crackers, fruit, cereal, milk, and other nibbly things.

Then the real fun started Saturday night when Anna and I talked about what to eat before our play. We stayed in Adams-Morgan and were a short stroll toward Eighteenth St., NW. Before we left, I searched Zagat online for hints on what to eat, but had little luck.

There was an article about a Peruvian cuisine, but I didn't see its address and we didn't count on anything. I had an old Rough Guide Lonely Planet guide to DC. Nineteen ninety-seven, in fact. It turns out that the restaurants that we considered we all Done. Over. Closed. Normally I research the options before visiting a city I don't know, but Fiona, my host, is a native and we figured we'd have her guidance weekend-long, except that she was in Maryland at a wedding.

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Las Canteras

Anna and I decided to walk and stop somewhere that caught our eye. The first place we came to was Las Canteras, a Peruvian restaurant. We checked out the menu and decided to dine there. Lovely decor. Deep red walls, wooden floors, thick stable tables. They offered us a spot by the window, which I would have taken in an instant to people-watch, but we sat where we gravitated toward.

I ordered a Picasa sour, a drink specialty. I winced with my first taste. It burned. I know better than to use a soppy straw. At least I will next time. It's made with grape brandy, lime juice, egg whites, a dash of cinnamon and Angostura bitters. They brought bread, butter, and  spicy relish, but weren't communicative about what exactly it was. Soon the table next to us was filled with native-Spanish speaking folks.

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Get yer hot boiled peanuts at Eastern Market!

Couldn't pass up the cebiche. Weird how it was spelled with a "b" instead of a "v." But it tasted the same. I got the mixto, which included whitefish, shrimp, squid, and mussels. Yum. Divine. Could have eaten plates and plates of that. Anna ordered a quinoa dish prepared in a manner reminiscent of tabbouleh and served in three smallish scoops. She offered me a bite. It was cold and savory all at once. I would order it again.

Didn't want anything heavy for dinner, as if anything on their menu was heavy! The quinoa (KEEN-wah) dish suited me fine, but it was called something else, like quinotta or quinottia; can't quite remember and I didn't write it down. Nor, did I pronounce it correctly. It was quinoa and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Soothing and just enough. Actually, I didn't finish the dish. Not because it wasn't good, but because I imagined staggering my way through the city streets feeling as full as a tick and regretting my overeating.

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Tunnicliffs Tavern

After browsing the stalls at Eastern Market we found a table at Tunnicliff's where we could escape the heat, eat, and allow Fiona to watch the Redskins game. She explained football strategy while I ate my salmon bagel with capers, cream cheese, and onion. Missed out on the bread pudding because we settled our bill and the waiter ignored us afterwards even though he spouted off the list of desserts to us.

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guava straight from the tree, U.S. Botanic Gardens

Without bread pudding in my tummy, we drove to the U.S. Botanic Gardens and scored a parking place in front of its entrance. We oohed and aahed over several edible items like the coffee bean tree, guava tree bearing its fruit, a display of peppers that we didn't dare touch, and several herbs.

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trailing thyme, U.S. Botanic Gardens

Sunday night we ate in the same block as Saturday at Iyoti, an Indian restaurant. Sag paneer is my favorite and I always order it. I'm too predictable. But I know what I like. When I order something else, I'm invariably deeply disappointed. And naan. We shared the fish cutlets which were yummy, but reminded me of salmon patties I ate as a child. And the Bhel puri was something else. It's described as a traditional Bombay savory with rice puffs and crisp noodles. Even after having the waiter explain it to us, we weren't sure what it would be. Delicious, of course, but more like a dry, sweet and spicy cereal.

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Then Monday morning we walked around the Mall and ate at one of their cafeteria-type establishments. I had a glorious beet salad. Institutional food can be fabulous. Red beets, goat cheese, mandarin orange slices, fried onion chunks, and arugula.

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Their dessert options were lovely as well, but nothing made me really want to part with a Lincoln-note.

chains can be nice enough

It's not often that I yearn to return to a chain. But Rosa Mexicano did that for me. The other thing to recommend it is that Ian browsed and actually read a few of the recipes from the eponymous cookbook. He was disappointed not to find the mole that he ate within its pages. But we both said "did you read the part about" instructions about not soaking black beans beforehand otherwise they come our gray and with their skins split?

Anyway, about the restaurant: Its atmosphere was lovely. This is one of the places the timeshare shiller recommended. Naturally, I was not going there. Yet, I'd seen its name appear once or twice on the Chow boards, so I at least recognized its name. Ian wanted Mexican while we were in the Palm Beach area. There was a Whole Foods a few storefronts down. Rosa Mexicano was huge inside: soaring ceilings and rafters, no less. Walls were painted a deep red. Lots of tapestry-like things hanging on the walls. Nice bathroom.

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queso fundido

They had guacamole for two mixed table-side and I wanted it, but not to eat all alone. Ian doesn't do avocado.  And frankly, I figured I could make a meal of the guacamole alone. There were diners who ordered it, so we watched the mixing from afar. However, we did order the queso fundido (Melted Chihuahua cheese with crumbled chorizo sausage and rajas (slow-cooked Mexican peppers). It was fabulous. It filled me up. I eyed the ceviche, one of my all-time favorite dishes, but didn't indulge. We've been dieting so long that both of us fill up quickly. I so tried to save room for an entree. I could easily have made meals of the appetizers. And probably should have.

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chile ancho relleno de verduras

Ian got enchiladitas de pollo (little enchiladas filled with pulled chicken, chorizo sausage and red beans, topped with Mole de Xico.). I ordered the chile ancho relleno de verduras (ancho chiles filled with sauteed spinach, wild mushrooms and goat cheese over roasted tomato chipotle sauce). Both were excellent. I barely finished my first chile because it was so spicy. I'm used to rellenos tasting more neutral. We got refried black beans and yellow rice with our dishes. Both were fabulous, and completely the reason why I ordered the cookbook. The rice is seasoned with mustard, believe it or not. Our server told us when we asked. The beans were glorious. Can't wait to replicate that recipe at home.  But I think we're having steak and potatoes after I come home from my accordion lesson tonight.

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Pastel de queso

We finished with dessert, of course. I so wanted the Tres leches cake. Ian wanted the Pastel de queso. It was all apple and cinnamon flavored. We got that. Must say that apple and cinnamon is my least favorite flavor of anything, but I tried to be a good date and let Ian order something he'd like. Oh, no doubt he would have loved the Tres leches cake. Most of the time he prefers my menu selection to what he orders and gets stuck with.

All of this to say that I'd have gladly visited Rosa Mexicano while in DC this weekend. I ate Peruvian and Indian cuisines instead.

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